is mineral makeup natural?

All substances can be divided into two categories:

a) Organic – that which contains organs to support life and will eventually rot (humans and plants, for example). (Not to be confused with “certified organic” labelling on food and personal care products.)

b) Inorganic – without the organs necessary for life (rocks, for example)

Generally what people mean when they ask if minerals are organic is: “Are they natural?” That’s a hard question to answer because there isn’t a satisfactory definition of “natural” in the personal care product industry. Perhaps a better question would be: “Do they occur naturally?” The answer to that would be “yes and no.”

There is a misconception that all minerals used in mineral powders come directly from the earth. Even minerals such as Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide that originate in natural rocks have to be processed when they are extracted and later in laboratories. A number of minerals such as Iron Oxides and Mica are manufactured wholly under strict laboratory conditions. In nature, these minerals would be contaminated with heavy metals and other toxins and would, therefore, be prohibited from cosmetic use. This doesn’t make them less mineral.

“Clean” rather than “natural” is a better word to describe products that are attempting to eliminate toxins and questionable ingredients. Clean has been the mineral makeup pioneers’ quest from the start. Because the category is so much more extensive than it once was, it has opened the door to compromise. Now, there are mineral powders with Talc, Parabens, Synthetic Fragrance and other undesirable ingredients. However, there are still a few purist brands around.

what is mineral makeup?

The quality, quantity, particle size and type differ from brand to brand, but a good mineral powder should comprise a combination of any of the following ingredients: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Iron Oxides, Mica, Bismuth Oxychloride or Boron Nitride. (Because some people find Bismuth Oxychloride to be irritating to the skin, we have chosen not to use it in any of our powders or foundations.)

In a true mineral powder formulation, bulking agents such as Talcum, Nylon and Starch such as corn and rice, should not appear. (Talc is an inferior ingredient for makeup use. Its chemical structure is closest to asbestos. Talc is drying to the skin, accentuates fine lines and pores, and is what leads to makeup creping.) Apart from additions such as antioxidants and botanicals, our powders (loose and pressed) are pure mineral pigment which is what provides such versatile coverage, sun protection and benefits for the skin. This concentrated pigment also gives the mineral powder superior adherence so that it rarely transfers or needs touching up. All of our makeup goes through sensitivity testing on 50 human subjects and all of our sunscreen products and those products containing citrus extracts also undergo phototoxicity testing. This ensures that there

is minimal allergy risk. We have also taken special care to use natural preservatives and to avoid using synthetic preservatives such as parabens.

micronised or nano?

Micronised minerals are minerals that are finely milled to a small size. Our micronisation process results in minerals that are sheer and smooth and provide natural-looking coverage. However, micronised should not be confused with nano-sized (100nm or less) which is considerably smaller than micronised. The use of nano-sized particles in cosmetics is controversial because some believe that there is a lack of evidence as to their safety, while others feel that this is not a concern. At jane iredale we have chosen not to use nano particles in our products. All of our products, including our sunscreen products, are nano-free.

coverage

Apply with a brush or a sponge for coverage that it would normally take three products to achieve. The result should look sheer and luminescent and feel weightless.

First-time wearers commonly apply too much product because they are used to applying makeup that has large amounts of filler and not a lot of “pay-off.” With our minerals, less is more.

Generally, our minerals will last all day with minimal need for touch-ups. Our pigments are made from micronised minerals only – no diluters like talc.

The reason our powders work so well as a natural-looking beauty makeup and/or a camouflage is because the concentrated pigment masks colour but also reflects and refracts light (matte finishes absorb light). This results in a soft-focus effect.

A surprisingly small amount of our minerals will cover most types of redness including acne, rosacea and erythema (redness).

sun protection

what is an SPF rating?

Sun Protection Factor (SPF) indicates the level of protection against ultraviolet B (UVB), the rays primarily responsible for burning. The SPF number indicates how long it will take for UVB rays to redden your skin when you use a sun protection product, compared to how long the skin would take to redden without the product. So, the SPF number gives you some idea of how long you can stay in the sun without burning. For example, if you normally burn in 10 minutes without sunscreen and you’ve applied a liberal dose of a sunscreen with an SPF number of 15, you should be protected from sunburn for 150 minutes.

SPF does not indicate protection against ultraviolet A (UVA), the rays primarily responsible for premature skin aging. A broad spectrum sunscreen is required to give protection in the UVA range as well. Our sunscreen products pass the new US FDA “Broad Spectrum” test which measures a product’s UVA protection in relation to its UVB protection. Only sunscreen products that pass the Broad Spectrum test and have an
SPF of greater than 15 may be labeled “Broad Spectrum” and make the additional claims: “decreases the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging if used as directed with other sun protection measures.”

Seven jane iredale products have earned The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation. To earn this seal, a manufacturer must provide scientific data showing that its products sufficiently and safely aid in the prevention of sun-induced damage to the skin.*

Our sunscreen products are also tested pursuant to various international requirements, testing methodologies and rating systems, including those established in the EU (European Union) and by the JCIA (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association).

• Our testing pursuant to EU requirements has resulted in a “UVA/UVB” claim which indicates that the UVA and UVB protection of the sunscreen are provided in a minimum 1 to 3 ratio. So, for example, a product with a UVB SPF of 30 requires a UVA rating of 10.

• Our SPF products have undergone laboratory-controlled UVA testing pursuant to the JCIA PA rating system (also known as the “Protection Grade of UVA” rating system), which reflects a sunscreen’s ability to protect against UVA rays. The PA rating system designates a PA+, PA++, PA+++ to indicate lowest to highest UVA protection. The more plus symbols the label has, the more protection the sunscreen provides against UVA rays. Our testing pursuant to the PA rating system has resulted in a PA+++ rating for our Powder-Me SPF and a PA++ rating for all of our other sunscreens.

Not all mineral powders have an SPF rating. If they do, the SPF rating must be specified on the label.

are jane iredale sunscreen products water resistant?

Yes, all jane iredale sunscreen products are water-resistant up to 40 Minutes. The new FDA final rule on the labeling and testing of sunscreen products, does not permit the labeling of sunscreen as “waterproof” or “sweatproof,” and allows “Water Resistance” claims only if the sunscreen remains effective for 40 or 80 minutes while you are swimming or sweating. The new testing techniques have resulted in a 40-minute designation for all of our sunscreen products.

what’s the difference between a sunscreen and a sunblock?

Under the new FDA final rule on the labeling and testing of sunscreen products the word “sunblock” is no longer allowed, since no sunscreen blocks out 100% of UV rays. The FDA is trying to eliminate any confusion the public may have or sense of false security. However, the Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide in our bases does physically block UV rays by acting like tiny mirrors on the skin reflecting and refracting the rays. Most chemical sunscreens have highly efficient absorption capabilities through the UVB, partly the UVA, and in some instances infrared wavelengths. Once the chemicals have absorbed their limit, the sunscreen ceases to be effective. (Absorption is the process in which light is “lost” when it falls on a material. The light is not actually lost, but is converted into some other energy, such as heat.)

In Sunscreens: Development: Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects, Nicholas J Lowe (Editor), renowned dermatologist and Clinical Professor of Dermatology at UCLA School of Medicine, takes a closer look at mineral UVA blockers, stating that a new subclass of physical blockers, micronised reflecting powders, have more recently been made available from a variety of manufacturers. Unlike traditional physical blockers, micronised reflecting powders are less visible, yet provide broad-spectrum protection against UVR. These should prove useful in UVR-sensitive patients resistant to older physical blockers for cosmetic reasons. An additional benefit is that they do not cause photosensitivity.

how much sunscreen must be applied to get the protection advertised?

According to the American Academy of Dermatology you should use enough sunscreen to generously coat all skin that will not be covered by clothing. One ounce, enough to fill a shot glass, is considered the amount needed to cover the exposed areas of the entire body. You should apply our sunscreen liberally and evenly over face and body 15 minutes before sun exposure and re-apply approximately every two hours or after swimming or sweating heavily according to packaging directions. jane iredale sunscreen products are water-resistant up to 40 Minutes. This means that the sunscreen remains effective for 40 minutes while you are swimming or sweating.

which are the most damaging rays?

UVB rays were once thought to be the major culprits because they penetrate and affect the epidermis,
but UVA rays are now known to be equally if not more damaging since they penetrate the skin more deeply than UVB rays. According to the late Dr. Madhu Pathak at the Harvard Medical School: Many lines of evidence indicate that the primary biological actions of UVA radiation involve DNA damage. According to The Skin Cancer Foundation, studies over the past two decades have shown that UVA damages skin cells in the basal layer of the epidermis, where most skin cancers occur, and even reach deeper into the dermis.

UVA rays contribute to and may even initiate the development of skin cancers (Skin Cancer Foundation, http://www.skincancer.org/prevention/uva-and-uvb/understanding-uva-and-uvb).

UVB emissions from the sun undergo significant seasonal variations; the UVA emissions, however, do not appreciably change over the course of the year. The overall amount of solar UVA reaching the earth’s surface is much greater than that of UVB. Also, UVA penetrates most window glass and many plastics that

do not transmit UVB. Always check to make sure your sunscreen protects from both UVB and UVA, but be aware that regardless of the advertising no sunscreen prod-
uct screens out all UV rays. The best defense is to try to minimise your exposure between the hours of 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., to seek shade and wear sun-protective clothing. The effects of infrared rays (felt by the body as heat) are not fully known, but according to Drs. Lorraine and Albert Kligman from the University of Pennsylvania; They cannot be ignored in connection with photoaging.

is there such a thing as a safe tan?

No! A tan is a sign of injury. It is the body’s attempt to increase sun protection after the skin is already

The above graphic suggests the different levels of penetration into the skin by UVB and UVA rays.

permanently damaged by an overdose of ultraviolet
radiation! More than 90% of the visible signs of aging are
due to sun exposure. And that means all sun exposure, because ultraviolet radiation damage is cumulative. Walking to the mailbox, getting in your car, and sitting by the window all count! Unprotected exposure to the sun is like sitting in a time machine on fast-forward.

didn’t I just hear that sunscreens aren’t effective against melanoma?

No, Dr. Marianne Berwick said that it is not safe to rely only on sunscreens to prevent melanoma. This doesn’t mean stop using them. Skin cancer, which includes basal cell carcinoma (BCC), squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) and melanoma, is the most common form of cancer in the United States. Each year in the US, an estimated 2.8 million cases of basal cell carcinoma, 700,000 cases of squamous cell carcinoma, and 76,250 cases of invasive melanoma are diagnosed (Skin Cancer Foundation, http://www.skincancer.org/skin- cancer-information/skin-cancer-facts). Most dermatologists feel that it can take over 20 years for melanoma to develop. Many of those with this cancer today were exposed to the sun’s damage two decades ago before effective sunscreens had been developed. Dr. Roger Ceilley, former president of the American Academy of Dermatology, states Sun protection should begin in childhood and continue throughout life. Overwhelming evidence supports the beneficial effect of sunscreen usage, not only in preventing painful sunburn, but also in preventing photo-aging and skin cancer, including melanoma. We believe it would be irresponsible to recommend that regular use of sunscreen be discontinued.

Melanoma – the most aggressive form of skin cancer – is currently the most common type of cancer diagnosed in young adults. Many experts believe that this trend is due, in part, to the popularity of indoor tanning among this group. According to the Melanoma Research Foundation, Melanoma is the most common form of cancer for young adults 25–29 years old and the second most common form of cancer for young people 15–29 years old. Melanoma is the leading cause of cancer death in women 25–30 years old and the second leading cause of cancer death in women 30–35 years old. As many as 90% of melanomas
are estimated to be caused by ultraviolet (UV) exposure. This includes UV exposure from the sun and from artificial sources, such as tanning beds. The World Health Organization’s International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies tanning beds and tanning lamps into its highest cancer risk category — carcinogenic to humans, the same category as other hazardous substances such as plutonium and certain types of radium.

Numerous individual studies, including an analysis of several studies combined (meta-analyses), have consistently shown that indoor tanning increases the risk of developing all forms of skin cancer, including melanoma.

can sun damage be reversed?

We are told that some of it can be if the skin is routinely protected from the sun. The excellent skin care products on the market today can help aid the skin in reversing sun damage. But they do little good if they aren’t combined with sun protection. Months of hard work can be undone in one morning working in the garden with no sunscreen, hat or gloves on.

The graphic on page 7 suggests the different levels of penetration into the skin by UVB and UVA rays.

what are some of the effects of sun exposure?

Lines, wrinkles and sagging are the direct result of sun damage to the underlying collagen and elastin fibers. Hyperpigmentation can be caused or exacerbated by sun irritation to the melanocytes (the pigment producing cells), which in turn causes over-production of melanin, the body’s attempt to protect itself. Add in hypo-pigmented macules, telangiectasias and raised, rough precancerous actinic keratoses (the most common skin pre-cancers) and the result of tanning is not pretty.

benefits for the skin

Under a microscope, the mineral crystals look like overlapping fish scales. These crystals from a filter that allows the free exchange of gasses (oxygen and carbon dioxide). In other words, minerals allow the skin to breathe and function normally. Our minerals have all been tested for comedogenicity. We have many accounts from acne sufferers testifying to improvement in their skins since using our makeup.

Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide will help to calm and soothe redness. Zinc Oxide is a natural antiseptic.

We use the highest grade of antioxidants and botanicals in our makeup, often with sophisticated delivery systems such as liposomes in order to nurture the skin.

All of our bases, with the exception of Liquid Minerals, have physical broad spectrum sun protection.

concentrated pigment

Traditional colour cosmetics contain between 70–90% Talc. This dilutes the actual pigment which minimises coverage and payoff. Apart from ingredients added to benefit the skin, e.g. antioxidants, our powders are pure pigment.

adherence
Because of the micronisation process our mineral particles undergo, they bind together on application.

When applied to clean, moisturized skin, the surface tension this creates overcomes gravity and holds the minerals tightly to the skin. The result is that they resist running, creasing and smearing and will only come off with a cleanser or our Magic Mitt. No special cleanser is required.

minimal allergy risk

Allergies and sensitivities are usually caused by substances that are irritants to the skin. Reactions are mostly localised and include redness, itching, swelling, burning, stinging and occasional blistering. These reactions are often called contact dermatitis. Another type of reaction, known as allergic contact dermatitis, involves the immune system and can cause redness, swelling, itching and hives. It is rare that cosmetics cause a

TOC

systemic allergic reaction, although it can happen. Common irritants found in personal care products are:

• Chemical sunscreens
• Chemical preservatives such as Parabens • Phthalates commonly listed as DBP
• Synthetic fragrance

• Synthetic Dyes – particularly D&C Yellow #11, FD&C Blue #1, FD&C Yellow #5

• Synthetic fragrance
• Surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate

Our cosmetics contains none of these sensitisers. We formulate with ingredients that calm and nurture the skin. All of our products have been safety, allergy and clinically tested. Refer to Tests below for more information.

colourants

We traditionally use iron oxides, mica and carmine as colourants in our cosmetics. These work well except for the difficulty in getting brighter, fashion colours. Recently we have heard from our consumers who are vegan and Kosher that they can’t use products with carmine. We have made the decision to find a substitute where possible. Our choices were FD&C dyes, D&C dyes or D&C lakes.

FD&C dyes are soluble dyes approved by the FDA for food, drugs and cosmetics. D&C dyes are the same thing but only approved for drugs and cosmetics. They are mostly derived from petroleum seed stock but the final products are rigorously tested to make sure they contain no traces of the original petroleum. These dyes can be comedogenic and irritants. D&C Lakes are dyes bonded to a substrate of either barium sulfate, aluminum hydroxide, aluminum oxide or calcium sulfate which makes them insoluble. We decided to use a limited number of D&C Lakes in some of our products where we could substitute them for carmine and where we needed brighter, fashion colours. The Lakes we have chosen are natural dyes like indigo bonded to a calcium substrate. They are non-comedogenic and have all been tested for sensitivity.

natural preservatives

We use a combination of natural preservatives while avoiding parabens and phenoxyethanol. We acknowledge how crucial it is to have effective preservative systems. Many of our products are used in the area of the eyes where real damage could occur from contamination. We conduct exhaustive Stability Testing and Preservative Efficacy Testing to ensure there is no bacteria, yeast or mold activity. For more information on this, refer to Tests.

tests conducted by Iredale Mineral Cosmetics

required testing

sunscreen testing

jane iredale conducts extensive testing of its sunscreen products to determine their efficacy in terms of UVA and UVB protection in compliance with both US FDA (Food and Drug Administration) and international requirements and testing methodologies.

US FDA Our sunscreen products are tested pursuant to all FDA requirements for the testing of OTC sun- screen products. As per the FDA’s June 2011 rule, all of our sunscreens have been tested and passed the new FDA Broad Spectrum test which measures a product’s UVA protection in relation to its UVB protection. Only sunscreens that have an SPF 15 or greater and pass the new Broad Spectrum test may be labeled “Broad Spectrum” and make the additional use claims: “decreases the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging if used as directed with other sun protection measures.”

Our sunscreen products have also been tested for their water resistancy pursuant to the new rule which only allows “Water Resistance” claims if the sunscreen remains effective after a very strenuous testing protocol. Under the new rule our sunscreens can claim “Water Resistance — 40 Minutes” which is the amount of time the user can expect to get the claimed SPF level of protection while swimming or sweating.

INTERNATIONAL Our sunscreen products are also tested pursuant to various international requirements, testing methodologies and rating systems, including those established in the EU (European Union) and by the JCIA (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association).

Our testing pursuant to EU requirements has resulted in a “UVA/UVB” claim which indicates that the UVA and UVB protection of the sunscreen are provided in a minimum 1 to 3 ratio. So, for example, a product with a UVB SPF of 30 requires a minimum UVA rating of 10.

The JCIA PA rating system (also known as the “Protection Grade of UVA” rating system) reflects a sunscreen’s ability to protect against UVA rays. The PA rating system designates a PA+, PA++, PA+++ to indicate lowest to highest UVA protection. The more plus symbols the label has, the more protection the sunscreen provides against UVA rays. Our testing pursuant to the PA rating system has resulted in a PA+++ rating for our Powder-Me SPF and a PA++ rating for all of our other sunscreens.

testing of sunscreen actives

Each batch of our SPF products is tested to ensure that the sunscreen active it contains, either Titanium Oxide and/or Zinc Oxide, is present at its stated amount.

stability testing

Stability testing includes various tests that measure a product’s shelf life. For example, the product can be tested in real time or it can be measured through an incubation process. This subjects the product to intense heat and cold for a period of one month. This acceleration is equal to one year.

All of our products have undergone stability testing. This testing helps to determine a product’s “best used by” date or the product’s PAO or Period After Opening date.

Products with a shelf life of 30 months or less include a “best used by” date. Currently, the only jane iredale products that bear a “best used by” date are our Hydration Sprays.

Products with a shelf life of more than 30 months include the PAO or Period After Opening, which is the number of months the consumer can expect to use the product at its optimal performance after opening the product. The PAO is indicated by the PAO symbol, an open jar and the lifespan of the product contents

in months (indicated by a number followed by “M”).

PET – preservative efficacy testing

Preservative Efficacy Testing also known as Preservative Challenge Testing is performed on each product to prove the efficacy of the product’s preservative system to stop and prevent the growth of microorganisms. In a laboratory, the product’s preservatives are challenged by introducing microorganisms, including various bacteria, yeast and mold, into the product: .

Over a period of time, samples are tested at different intervals to determine the survival of the organisms. When the testing of our products is concluded no microbial activity is detectible.

voluntary testing

human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT)

We voluntarily test our products for irritancy and sensitivity using the Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT). This test is not required, but we choose to perform it on all jane iredale products to ensure that our products do not irritate the skin and are suitable for sensitive skin.

The HRIPT is a two-phase test conducted on fifty people per product. During the first phase, the test is repeated three times on the same subject within a week. There is a ten to fourteen day break and then the subject is patch-tested for three consecutive days. There is a 24-hour evaluation and 48-hour evaluation.

In every case, the results of being tested with our products were negative. No sensitivity recorded to any product. The claims we can make are:

• dermatologist tested • non-irritating formula • allergy tested
• clinically tested

• hypoallergenic

comedogenicity testing

All of our products, except for lip and eye makeup, have undergone comedogenicity testing and shown to be non-comedogenic. Non-comedogenic products are less likely to clog pores and cause acne and are more suitable for sensitive skin.

Like the HRIPT test, comedogenicity testing is not required. We choose to perform this testing to ensure that our products are suitable for sensitive and acneic skin.

heavy metal testing

Heavy metals are ubiquitous in the environment and are found naturally in rocks, soil and water and therefore may be found in minerals, pigments and other raw materials used in cosmetics. Even after they are properly processed and purified under lab conditions, very low amounts, known as trace levels, may still be detectable in these ingredients or products. Testing allows us to detect heavy metals at very low levels and depending on the laboratory, technology utilized and material tested, these are measured in either parts per million or parts per billion. A detection of 1 ppm would represent .0001% of the total product formula.

We test all of our products for Mercury, Arsenic, Lead and Cadmium. If any trace amount of a heavy metal is detected it is below the permissible levels for cosmetics recommended by international public health agencies.

phototoxicity testing

All of our sunscreen products and those products containing citrus extracts have been tested for phototoxicity. The phototoxicity testing we have conducted has confirmed that our products are non- phototoxic. The test results have shown that no adverse effects or unexpected reactions of any kind were observed on test subjects.

In the U.S. phototoxicity testing of products is voluntary.

Phototoxicity, also known as photosensitization, is a toxic reaction brought on by a phototoxic substance exposed to sunlight. It causes the skin to be more sensitive to ultra violet light and usually appears as a very deep sunburn. Most common phototoxic ingredients in cosmetics are citrus-based. The actual agents caus- ing this sun sensitivity are known as furocoumarins. We use distilled citrus based extractions in our products except for our lemon peel oil which is cold pressed.

Tina Kay Skincare / Tina Kay's Beauty Therapy / Jane Iredale Stockist Maitland Australia