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Dr Spiller Skincare


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 Dr. Spiller

In his late thirties in 1959 Dr. Horst Spiller had a career change, deciding to flip from food technology to cosmetics. Combinations of oil and water are an important part of food technology. This unusual background allowed Dr Spiller to study and develop cosmetic emulsions from a completely different viewpoint.


Dr. Spiller’s idea of working with the skin rather than breaking it down is recognized by Spiller-trained skin professionals and their clients as a unique and highly effective solution to fresh, beautiful skin.


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Tina Kay

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how to apply dr Spiller Products, Dr Spiller collagen cream


Over washing and stripping the skin’s natural barrier function via harsh cleansing or over-exfoliating removes the skins protective layer leaving it more susceptible to chronic dehydration, bacterial invasion and persistent reactivity. Humidity, wind and evaporation can also contribute to the loss of skin integrity.

• The skin flourishes in a slightly acidic environment. The occasional or continual use of alkaline or very acidic products create imbalance re­sulting in redness, itchiness, tightness and burning.
• Hormonal changes instigated by stress, puberty and menopause can affect the skin’s biological repair processes. Genetic hormonal im­balances can often contribute to the appearance of diffused redness and dilated capillaries.
• Stinging, itching, blotches, tightness and redness are all indicators of a skin reaction. The use of any product that creates any of these symptoms should be ceased immediately to prevent further skin damage.

• Just because an ingredient or product claims to be ‘natural;
‘organic’ or ‘hypo-allergenic’ does not guarantee it will not cause a reaction. All skins are individual and even the toughest of complexions can occasionally react to certain products.
• The skin can react to every day household items such as laundry powder, cleaning products and hand sanitiser. Other common irritants include metals (such as nickel), rubber and even woollen clothing. Inflammation is not just restricted to the face and can appear
anywhere on the body.
• Foods and food products such as gluten, dairy, MSG, wine and soy can cause skin reactivity for some people. A simple elimination test can confirm any allergies.

Sensitised and inflamed conditions have four contributing factors that should be taken into account in order to provide effective treatment and management.

These include:

• Genetic disorders
• Topical/ external irritants
• Allergic reactions
• Food intolerances

Skin disorders including psoriasis,
rosacea, ichthyosis, acne and certain forms of eczema are hereditary conditions affecting skin immunity, integrity and health. Whilst suffer­ers experience various degrees of inflammation and sensitivity, stress and the use of harsh or aggressive skin care products can
exacerbate symptoms creating intense dryness, redness, discomfort and heat.


What is the difference between dry and dehydrated skin?

People assume that the terms dry and dehydrated are interchangeable when referring to skin but little do they know there is a chasm between the two terms.

Dry skin or alipidic (if you are into impressing others -which means without lipids) does not produce oil. Skin follicles are very small and the sebum production is minimal. Smaller follicles indicate dry skin. The purpose of the natural oil that our skin produces is to hold onto moisture. If skin has no ability to produce natural oil moisture evaporates and problems arise making skin rough, taut and flaky.
Dry skin lacks oil.

Dehydrated skin is not a skin type but a skin condition and it does not discriminate. You can have oily, dry, combination or acne prone skin and still have dehydrated skin. Dehydrated skin is caused by topical skin care and external aggressors like pollution, weather, smoking, artificial environment, harsh ingredients and products, medication, not drinking enough water, long hot baths and showers, over cleansing, chlorine and alcohol.
Dehydrated skin lacks water.

The symptoms
Dry skin – a skin type
Creased skin
Very sensitive to touch
Slight tingling or smarting after cleansing
Make up stays longer
General discomfort when applying make up or skin care

Dehydrated skin – a skin condition
Shiny patches
Feels oily and dry at the same time
Skin taut after cleansing
Pores are enlarged
Black heads appear more readily
Skin care products are absorbed too readily – it is never enough
Make up goes on patchy and stays patchy and oily

How to treat dehydrated skin
Seek professional analysis
Use a mild cleanser that does not strip skin
Use non-alcoholic toner
A serum
Avoid scrubbing brushes and harsh exfoliants
Water-in-oil moisturiser is a must
Avoid acids like AHA, BHA, Salicylic, Benzoyl peroxide, Sulphur topicals and acne treatment creams and retinol

Harding C, Watkinson A, Rawlings A, Scott I. Dry skin, moisturization and corneodesmolysis. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000; 22(1): 21-52.

Rawlings A. Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2003; 25(1-2): 63-95.

Did you know?
A study published in the Journal of Applied Physiology in 2008 found that dehydration by -2.5% and -5.0% of body mass “…strongly increased cortisol, epinephrine, and norepinephrine, the primary stress hormones.” Judelson AD. et al. “Effect of hydration state on resistance exercise-induced endocrine markers of anabolism, catabolism, and metabolism.” Journal of Applied Physiology September 2008 vol. 105 no. 3 816-824

The Pinch-Pout face test
Dehydration often reduces skin elasticity, so take this test to find out if you are dehydrated. After washing and drying your face pinch the skin on the bridge of your nose for a few seconds and release – the skin should snap back immediately if it maintains it for a few seconds – you are dehydrated.

You can try this also by puckering your lips and when you relax if the skin around your mouth does not snap back rapidly and the creases hold for a few seconds – you are dehydrated



The simple fact is skin is at its best when all its natural functions are 100% intact.


The best way we can help our skin to remain radiant and healthy looking is by ensuring these functions are supported and, where necessary, reinforced. The term ‘mimic’ is gaining credence in terms of skin care where ingredients are scientifically engineered to mimic skin’s natural defences.

Active ingredients are important and can be highly effective yet they are useless (and can even become irritants) if the first rule of healthy skin is neglected: proper protection and hydration.


Our skin’s acid mantle protects it from environmental aggressors. It also keeps TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) at a natural healthy level, ensuring that the moisture content in our epidermis does not fall below the crucial 10% barrier.

Our skin cleansing procedures need to be mindful of this. Even washing our skin with plain water will wash away some of the Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF’s) contained in the acid mantle. Most soaps are designed to bind to oil; they will strip our natural sebum from the acid mantle leaving our skin open to dehydration and environmental damage.

A good cleansing product, whilst effectively removing grime, make up and excessive oils, must be gentle on the skin and must minimise any interference with the skin’s acid mantle.


As we age the number of dead cells on the skin’s surface increases. These cells can leave the skin looking dull and lifeless.

Gentle exfoliation will remove dead skin cells without damage. Mechanical exfoliation utilises abrasive ingredients. Some, like crushed shells of nuts, cut nylon or aluminium oxide, have sharp edges and can cause micro-injuries on the skin.

Jojoba Wax balls are a gentle yet effective biodegradable alternative: they are spherical, without sharp edges and therefore won’t damage the skin.

Exfoliation based on chemical acids has been popular for many decades. Industry experts now have come to the conclusion that regular application of acid containing skin care products may leave the skin in a constant state of micro- inflammation, leading to the formation of enzymes and free radicals that, in the long run, will lead to a breakdown of collagen and elastin.


Skin can only maintain its healthy functions if hydration levels are within normal range. Low sebum levels, our artificial environment, aggressive cleansers and even some moisturisers that are not up to their task will leave the epidermis dehydrated.

When the skin is dehydrated it is vulnerable to environmental aggressors. This invariably leads to inflammation, diffused redness and ultimately to premature aging.

The five main environmental dangers to healthy skin: mechanical pressure, wind and weather, water, chemicals and bacteria. The hydrolipidic layer or acid mantle on the right side is broken, leaving the skin vulnerable. The result is inflammation, which leads to formation of free radicals and damaging enzymes, resulting in premature aging of the skin

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